Destination: Istria, Croatia

Between Coastal Towns and Hilltop Villages

Along Istria’s western coast, Rovinj rises from the sea in a close gathering of colourful houses, narrow streets and small squares. The old town climbs towards the Church of St. Euphemia, whose bell tower marks the skyline above the harbour. Exploring on foot reveals stone passageways, waterfront views and a town whose relationship with the Adriatic remains central to its character.

Further north, the coastline around Umag and Novigrad connects seaside towns with smaller villages such as Lovrečica. This stretch offers a natural starting point for discovering northwestern Istria, where fishing traditions meet the vineyards and olive groves of the nearby countryside. Inland, Brtonigla brings these landscapes together around a village of stone streets and family properties.

The peninsula’s history becomes particularly visible in Pula, where the Roman amphitheatre remains a defining landmark. In Poreč, the UNESCO-listed Euphrasian Basilica introduces another chapter through its early Christian architecture and mosaics.

Beyond the coast, roads climb towards Motovun, Grožnjan and Buzet. Motovun overlooks the surrounding countryside from its hilltop position, while Grožnjan is known for its artistic life. Around Buzet and the Mirna valley, the landscape introduces one of Istria’s most recognisable culinary traditions: truffles. These inland towns offer a different perspective on the peninsula, with views across cultivated hills, forests and small rural settlements.

The Flavours of Istria

Istrian cuisine follows the changing landscape between sea and countryside. Fish, shellfish and crustaceans shape coastal cooking, while the interior brings truffles, mushrooms, seasonal vegetables and meat dishes to the table. Olive oil and local wine connect these different traditions, appearing throughout the region’s kitchens and everyday meals.

Pasta holds a special place in this culinary identity. Fuži, made from thin pieces of dough folded into small tubes, and pljukanci, shaped into short spindles, are among Istria’s best-known varieties. Their handmade forms reflect a cooking tradition built around familiar ingredients and skills passed between generations.

Truffles provide another expression of the region. The area around Buzet, Livade and Motovun is closely associated with truffle hunting, with autumn bringing particular attention to the prized white truffle. Seasonal celebrations connect this ingredient with local producers of cheese, honey, wine and olive oil, revealing the wider food culture surrounding it.

Wine is equally central to discovering Istria. Malvazija Istarska and Teran feature prominently in its identity, while wine roads lead visitors through vineyards and cellars across the countryside. Alongside them, olive oil trails offer opportunities to meet producers and explore an ingredient that plays a defining role in the region’s gastronomy.

Experiences for Gastronomy Lovers

Exploring Istria through food means spending time with the landscapes and people behind its ingredients. Visits to wineries and olive oil producers can become part of a journey between coastal towns and inland villages, connecting tastings with the places where grapes and olives grow.

Around the truffle-growing areas of the interior, guided truffle hunts introduce visitors to the knowledge and patience involved in finding this ingredient. Autumn offers a particularly strong connection to the region’s food culture, as truffles, the grape harvest and new-season olive oil bring attention back to the countryside.

Walking and cycling offer another way to move through the landscape. Sections of the former Parenzana railway route connect the journey with Istria’s history, while stops in hilltop towns provide opportunities to explore local art, architecture and food. Along the coast, harbour walks and visits to historic centres bring a different rhythm to the same itinerary.

Discover Istria Through Its JRE Restaurants

Three JRE restaurants offer distinct perspectives on Istrian gastronomy, connecting the fishing village of Lovrečica, the countryside around Brtonigla and Rovinj’s historic centre.

Badi, Lovrečica

In Lovrečica, near Umag, Badi tells a family story rooted in the Adriatic. Opened in 1986, the restaurant centres its cuisine on fish, shellfish, crustaceans and seasonal local produce. Dishes such as homemade pasta with Istrian truffles and seafood buzara connect the kitchen with the surrounding region, while sommelier Ivan Badurina oversees the wine selection at his family’s restaurant.

San Rocco, Brtonigla

Set within a family-run boutique hotel in Brtonigla, San Rocco occupies a former wine cellar surrounded by the landscapes that inform its cuisine. Chef Floriana Ružić draws on Istrian traditions, interpreting ingredients such as Adriatic fish, truffles, mushrooms and game through contemporary techniques. Teo Fernetich brings the family’s connection to hospitality and wine into the experience, while olive oil tastings offer another introduction to the region’s produce.

Monte, Rovinj

Among the narrow streets of Rovinj’s old town, close to the Church of St. Euphemia, Monte brings a creative perspective to Istrian ingredients. Chef Danijel Đekić builds his cuisine around seasonality and local produce, exploring flavour, texture and presentation through contemporary tasting menus. Owned by the Đekić family, the restaurant connects its place in Rovinj with a culinary approach that helped it become the first restaurant in Croatia to receive a Michelin star.