Recognition That Inspires Continued Creativity

Michelin stars are the most visible recognition of culinary excellence, but for those who hold them, they represent far more than a moment of celebration. They bring daily responsibility, a personal standard and a quiet commitment to reaching the top again and again. Ana Roš’s Hiša Franko remains Slovenia’s only restaurant with three Michelin stars, while David Žefran’s two-star Milka continues to establish itself as one of the most distinctive voices in contemporary Slovenian cuisine. What does it mean to create at a level where the pinnacle is not a finish line, but a standard that must be upheld every day?

After all these years with Michelin stars, how do you maintain a balance between creative passion and the financial sustainability of a restaurant?
 

Ana Roš, Hiša Franko

Most fine dining restaurants with one, two or three Michelin stars are financially very demanding to sustain, which is why many chefs seek investors or business partners. Hiša Franko has none. One of the main reasons we earned our third star was that we needed to strengthen our financial sustainability. Simply put, we needed to survive doing what we do. Sometimes I envy the simpler restaurant concepts, such as pizzerias, which often earn more than restaurants at the highest level. When you add up all the costs, the effort involved and the constant creativity required, you have every right to ask yourself why you do it at all. The answer is simple: because you truly love it.

David Žefran, Milka

It requires constant experimentation and adaptation, because financial sustainability is difficult to maintain at our level. We are a young restaurant in a remote location, still establishing ourselves in the global market. Where we cannot succeed in one area, we have to make up for it elsewhere. We put a great deal of energy into improving the working environment, which is financially demanding. This does not limit creativity, however, as we are used to the constraints we have set ourselves through our commitment to local and regional ingredients. Those limitations often spark creativity.

How do you manage the pressure and stress that come with such significant recognition after the Michelin stars are announced?
 

Ana Roš, Hiša Franko

At Hiša Franko, we see Michelin stars primarily as recognition of the work we have done and confirmation that we are on the right path. The reward for us is a short, motivating break. Perhaps a surprise comes along, or perhaps another guide presents an award, but in those moments, we try above all to relax and enjoy them. The announcement is usually followed by interviews and media attention, and in the days that follow, we return to our normal rhythm of work and pick up where we left off.

David Žefran, Milka

Negative stress, the kind associated with Michelin, is not really there. Stress comes from staff shortages and rising costs. It is losing two guests because of a war in Iran, or losing American guests in the very month you need them most. It is a piece of equipment breaking down, or poor-quality ingredients arriving and forcing you to change dishes at the last minute because you refuse to let standards slip. Every day brings its own challenges, and today you cannot try to do better than yesterday. I would not call the stars a source of stress. People in hospitality are naturally committed and under pressure, but for us, that pressure is positive: every day, we come in wanting to offer our guests a slightly better experience. The stars are therefore not an additional burden, but confirmation that our daily effort is worthwhile. After the announcement, the team and I went up into the mountains and toasted with a few beers.

What is your next challenge? What are your plans for the future, and what excites you most right now?

Ana Roš, Hiša Franko

Our work is so complex that it is a constant source of excitement in itself. What releases adrenaline also fuels our enthusiasm and desire to create. When you can no longer find a challenge in your restaurant, it is probably time to do something else — perhaps write books. Right now, I am excited about the JAZ by Ana Roš projects in Ljubljana and Poreč, as well as the concept taking shape in Trieste’s old town, somewhere between Hiša Franko and JAZ. A connection between knowledge and people, fine dining and bistro cooking, will bring new perspectives and create new worlds. Without risk, there is no challenge; without it, excellence is quickly lost.

David Žefran, Milka

The next step is expansion. At the end of this year and the beginning of next year, we are opening a more relaxed concept in Ljubljana, and I want to devote as much fresh energy to it as possible. Alongside that, Milka remains a priority, with room to improve both the guest experience and the team’s working experience. Beyond these new projects, finding balance, making time for loved ones and caring for my physical fitness remain ongoing challenges.