Interview with JRE-member David Simunic, The Square: Precision and Creativity in Harmony
David Simunic, Chef at The Square restaurant, shapes each dish with the precision of an architectural drawing – millimetre by millimetre, with extraordinary attention to detail. Behind that perfect form lie his architectural training, childhood memories, a deep passion for gastronomy, and respect for tradition and local ingredients. He finds inspiration both in the raw energy and contrasts of punk music and in the nostalgic aromas of dishes that shaped him. On the plate, he merges the rigour of an engineer with the freedom of an artist, creating gastronomic compositions that are technically flawless yet aesthetically striking.
We spoke with David about his unusual professional journey – from architecture to the fine kitchens of Belgrade’s restaurants, the dishes he especially loves to prepare, and the Priceless experience that The Square, located in the refined ambience of Square Nine Hotel, offers its guests.
Early Inspiration
Do you remember the first time you felt that cooking was your true calling? Where were you, who were you with, and what makes that moment so memorable?
I clearly remember the first moment that sparked my fascination with food. As a child, I used to make fried dough with my neighbours and grandparents. The process was unusually detailed and lengthy – the dough would ferment for 16 hours, and the whole thing lasted two days, completely different from how my mother made the same dish. I loved that ritual, that sense of creating something from scratch with patience. Only now do I realise how much it shaped me – it taught me the value of process, dedication, and that powerful childlike pride when the result is better than expected.
Another memory from the same time is less romantic – I was in a hurry to make popcorn, checked if the stovetop was hot, and burned myself. That lesson about impatience stuck with me too. Even today, in a professional kitchen, I think about those two moments – the fried dough and the stovetop burn – as my first, opposing teachers.
The Signature Touch
Every chef has that “something” they don’t reveal easily – their secret or signature. But if you had to give us a hint, what makes your dishes special?
Honestly – there is no secret. I hide nothing. Everything I do is open and very clearly defined. If there’s something that sets me apart, it’s my approach – a combination of precision and deep respect for tradition. I love traditional dishes, familiar flavours, and local ingredients, but I pair them with a highly precise, almost engineering-like method of working.
I’m not a classically trained chef – I graduated from a secondary school of architecture, and that way of thinking has stayed with me. Before I serve a dish, I first draw it. I plan the position of every element on the plate as if drafting a blueprint. I know exactly where each element will go – everything is measured, everything precise to the millimetre. In my kitchen, everyone has their own ruler.
Defining Moments
Was there a pivotal moment in your career – a turning point that shaped you as a professional?
That turning point came when, encouraged by my best man, I began volunteering in an Italian restaurant in Belgrade. Until then, I was fully immersed in architecture – part of the last generation to draw technical plans by hand – and for the first time, I connected something I already knew with something completely new. Mise en place lists looked like blueprints to me – everything had to be prepared, arranged, and thought through. That connection between architecture and cooking was the start of something big.
People warned me that kitchens were stressful, exhausting, even brutal – but I was stubborn. I wanted to see for myself. I stepped into the kitchen and fell in love. Over the years, I worked in different Belgrade restaurants, learned from outstanding chefs, and experienced different teams.
But the defining moment came in 2013, when I joined The Square at Square Nine Hotel, where I still work today. For the first time, I was surrounded by people who approached everything with deep dedication and precision. I’ll never forget when one of my chefs corrected me for chopping parsley too quickly – he pushed it aside and showed me how each leaf should be placed for serving, carefully, as if arranging hair. That completely changed my perspective. I essentially started again – but in the right way.
I’m endlessly grateful to every chef and colleague who shaped me along the way – those at Square Nine, but also those from the restaurants where I worked before. Each left a mark and, in their own way, prepared me for what I do with all my heart today.
Beyond the Kitchen
When you’re not cooking, where do you find inspiration for new dishes?
Inspiration is a deeply personal thing – it often comes from where you least expect it. For me, music plays a big role, especially punk. It carries energy, defiance, collisions – and those collisions often become clashes of flavours, textures, ingredients. Everything begins with a feeling.
My family also inspires me. Sunday lunches, my grandmother’s and mother’s recipes, the smells of childhood – those are moments that stay with you and later become the essence of a new creation. Sometimes even playing with my son in his toy kitchen sparks an idea – reminding me that, at the end of the day, cooking should remain playful and honest.
Culture Through Cuisine
If you had to tell the story of one culture to a foreign guest through your dishes, which culture would it be, and what would be on that menu?
Without doubt – our culture. Perhaps we don’t have a huge repertoire of national dishes compared to some other cuisines, but we have outstanding products and authentic flavours. The menu would include ajvar, kajmak, roasted peppers from Belolućane, and of course, plum brandy. Perhaps even something unexpected, like tripe stew – because it’s precisely those dishes that best tell the story of our culture, our customs, and our identity.
Memory on a Plate
If you could taste one dish again – one that evokes a truly priceless memory – what would it be, and where would it take you?
Breaded chicken breast. That dish always takes me back to my childhood. I first tried it at my aunt’s house, during a birthday celebration, and that’s when I fell in love with fried chicken. From then on, it became a personal classic.
These days, we’re mindful of nutrition, especially for our child, but I’ll admit – I still take great pleasure in good street food. Burgers, pizza – but made with quality and care. If I ever opened my own restaurant, I imagine it would be some new, different take on the fast food format.
A First Taste of Priceless at The Square
What can guests expect from the Mastercard Priceless experience at The Square?
Guests who choose the Priceless experience at The Square can expect something beyond a meal – an experience to remember for a lifetime. We are known for exceptional service and attention to every detail. From the moment guests step inside, everything is carefully designed – from the atmosphere and the welcome, to the cutlery and the interior created by internationally acclaimed designers.
They will also have the opportunity to meet me and my team, go behind the scenes, and feel how much attention and emotion we put into each plate. And as a special gift, guests will receive my hand-drawn architectural sketch of the menu – a keepsake that reflects the character and atmosphere of the entire experience.
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