Interview with JRE-member Nicholas Neve
Great sommeliers let their wine selections speak for themselves. Every bottle, pairing, and recommendation reflects their expertise, personality, and philosophy. In this JRE member interview, we go beyond the wine list to discover the journey, inspirations, and passion behind the craft of Nicholas Neve from Hēdonē.
Introduction
Can you give us a short introduction with your name, location, how long you've been a sommelier, and at which restaurant you currently work?
Nicholas Neve, Tongeren, Belgium. I’ve been working in hospitality since I was about 15 years old, I’m 30 right now. During different jobs I grew a particular interest in wines and drinks in general. So to specify how long I’m working as a sommelier is quite difficult as other colleagues quickly turned to me when guests had questions concerning their wine selection. I have never been “only” sommelier, often in combination with other functions e.g. Restaurant Manager…
Early inspiration
Can you share how you first became interested in the world of wine and what motivated you to pursue a career as a sommelier?
Just working in hospitality created a general interest. During my studies in Antwerp (Industrial Engineer) I filled my free time with inviting some friends and fellow students at home for some home cooking evenings as I preferred quiet, calm evenings with friends to partying. So I cooked for them and had the urge to serve them a wine that elevated the dish. Some time later I was working as a student in a hotel, where I worked with Tom Ieven (Zilte, Hof van Cleve, Colette), his enormous knowledge and willingness to share his knowledge with me, really peeked my interest and later drove me to enroll in the WSET programs (level 1, 2 and 3 for wines and level 1 and 2 for spirits)
The Art of Wine Selection
How do you approach selecting wines for a restaurant’s menu, and what factors do you consider most important? What qualities do you look for when purchasing a wine?
Balance, in general. The wine needs to be balanced, but a wine list needs to be balanced as well. It’s easy to make a wine list you like, but it is much more difficult to make a selection that is interesting to a wide range of guests in a restaurant.
I do find myself steering away from the well known houses, names that sell themselves if you will. I find it much more interesting to look at new or unknown and small wineries as their pursuit of quality is much more vital to selling their wine.
Finding Harmony
What are your personal rules for food and wine pairing?
None actually. If it works with the dish, it works. Although it may sometimes seem strange for some to have a rosé wine in a wine pairing or going from a long aged white rioja to a very fresh and fruity unfiltered grüner veltliner.
A Memorable Pairing
Could you share a story about a particularly memorable wine pairing you’ve created or an experience with a guest that stands out?
Then I have to go back to the unfiltered veltliner. Which isn’t the most delicious wine to drink on its own if I’m being honest. And I can see by the guests faces that they agree with me most of the time. But seeing the smile on their faces when they have it with the dish and how the taste changes completely is just so much fun.
The Essence of Hēdonē
Can you describe the concept of your restaurant and what makes it unique?
It’s small and cosy, just me, my wife and up to 18 guests. We serve a menu in 4 to 6 courses, in a loose atmosphere. Fine dining but without the fuss.
Must-See Attractions
What’s one thing in the area that guests must see or do?
We’re in Haspengouw, with a lot of fruit farmers. So I would say come and enjoy the blossoms during the month of April. Rent a Vespa and have a ride through the orchards.
Advice for Aspiring Sommeliers
What advice would you give to aspiring sommeliers who want to follow in your footsteps?
Look for some basic training to get a grasp on the basics. And just explore, look for the things you don’t know in wine list, try it, get to know it. Taste, taste, taste, as much as you can.
